Spiti in winter is not for the faint-hearted — but for those who brave it, the valley reveals a side of the Himalayas that most travellers never see. Roads are buried under snow, the air bites with a cold that makes you feel truly alive, and the villages feel like they exist outside of time itself.
When to go — and what to expect
The winter window runs from December through February. Average temperatures hover between -15°C and -20°C at night in Kaza, the district headquarters. Don't let that scare you — the cold is dry, not damp, and layering correctly makes it entirely manageable. What you get in return: zero crowds, monasteries lit only by butter lamps, and landscapes so impossibly white and still that your camera can barely do them justice.
Getting there in winter
The Manali–Kaza highway via Rohtang Pass is completely closed. Your only option is the Shimla–Kaza route via Narkanda and Reckong Peo. Roads are often cleared by afternoon, but be prepared for early starts and potential delays. We recommend hiring a local driver from Reckong Peo — they know when to wait and when to push. Budget two full days from Shimla to Kaza.
Where to stay
Most guesthouses in Kaza stay open through winter. Sakya Abode and Spiti Holiday Home both run 24-hour heating and serve hot meals. In Pin Valley, a handful of homestays remain open and offer the most authentic experience — waking up to frozen window panes and a host pressing butter chai into your hands before you've even sat up.
The cold is dry, not damp. Layer correctly, and what you get in return is a landscape so impossibly white and still that your camera can barely do it justice.
— Kabir Thakur
From the Journey
Watch the Journey
✦ Key Tips Before You Go
Carry a quality sleeping bag rated to -20°C even if your homestay has blankets
Acclimatise in Shimla or Reckong Peo for a day before ascending
Download offline maps — signal disappears for long stretches
Carry cash; ATMs in Kaza are unreliable in winter
The Chandratal Lake trail is inaccessible in deep winter — save it for May
WRITTEN BY
Kabir Thakur
Kabir has spent over a decade guiding treks in the Indian Himalayas. He believes every mountain deserves at least two visits — once in summer, once in winter.
